Vauhti Grip Waxing for Conditions around Freezing

VAUHTI Grip Waxing For Conditions around Freezing:  Fundamental to successful waxing for the challenging conditions around the freezing mark is that you have, in your arsenal, a few basic options that can be fine-tuned when called upon by the conditions. When the risk for waxing failure is at its highest, stick to the basic methods that you have previously tested and know to work. In race situations, the time for testing is limited and consequently acting systematically and the execution of basic procedures will help to ensure functional and successful waxing. Remember: a successful wax job is generally very simple; complicated mixes of multiple waxes are not necessarily part of the selection process used by most waxing experts.

Basic Vauhti Waxing Recipe Choices for conditions around freezing:

1.  Apply a thin layer of Violet fluor klister, and on top, a layer of fluor Aluminium hard wax.  This combination works on wet glazed tracks when the track is firm. If portions of the track have dry snow and the wax tends to freeze, switch to option number 3. Use Fox Gel as a topcoat when the snow is new.

2.  Apply a thin Blue fluor klister, and on top Red hard grip wax.  This combination works in continuous sleet. The key to the success of the combination is the thickness of the layers: in continuous sleet, the layers must be very thin. If the track is heavily glazed over, the layers must be slightly thicker. If the waxing freezes, switch to a fluor Aluminium hard grip wax. A gel topcoat will improve the functionality of the waxing.

3.  Apply a thin Blue fluor klister, and on top fluor Aluminium.  This is suited for a wider functional range: wet new snow, fairly dry glazed tracks, tracks that have coarse or icy snow and glazed new snow. The combination is relatively tolerant of fairly dry snow and dry sleet. If the track is largely glazed and partly wet, switch the Aluminum to a Yellow hard grip wax or the whole combination to option number 1. Use the Fox Gel as a topcoat if the track is not totally coarse.

4.  Apply Base wax Super, and mix in Aluminum or Yellow hard grip wax  This works mainly in old, coarse or icy conditions when the track has so many spots with dry fine-grained snow that option 3 would not work and plain hard grip waxes by themselves would not endure on the skis. Use an Aluminum hard wax when the track still has partly loose snow. Use the Yellow hard grip wax when the wax is mostly glazed. The assumption in all of the above options (1 to 4) is that the track has at least partially new or fine-grained snow. If the conditions in question are the easiest around freezing (conditions following a thaw, a slight freezing so that the snow forms into a uniform coarse consistency and the track does not have any fine grained snow but rather coarse, icy or large grained "flour like" snow) proceed as follows with option 5:

5.  When it’s close to freezing: a generous layer of Blue fluor klister. After cooling off outside, add on top a layer of fluor Violet or fluor Carrot grip wax.  Finally, in conditions just colder than options 1-5, the following recipe has been very successful (-2…-5°C temperature range): Conventional blue klister, on top of the cooled klister add a layer of fluor Carrot hard grip wax and lightly smooth using the palm of your hand.

Kick Wax Observations - Zach Caldwell

JANUARY 26, 2013

Kick Waxing – Early season testing lessons.
The snow we received right after Christmas here in the East gave us some good opportunity to work with some new drywaxes, and the subsequent thaw got us into the klisters. So we’ve got some observations to pass along.

The Rode Violet WatershedWhen Blue-range waxes don’t work…

Blue-range waxes tend to have a phenomenally broad range – this includes products like Swix extra blue, Rode Super Blue, Vauhti Carrot, and many others. There are always winners and losers in the range, but all of the good waxes are plausible solutions in a very wide range of temperatures. When conditions get a little too warm for the blue-range waxes, things get very interesting.

About 80% of my in-service drywax collection (which weighs roughly 16 lbs, suggesting something in excess of 150 sticks of wax) targets conditions in the narrow range of temperatures within several degrees either side of freezing. Huge variations in conditions are possible within this range, and there is never a solution you can count on based on the temperature. Everything depends on the characteristics of the snowpack and the air. Testing is necessary, but it can be tough territory to navigate, given the myriad wax choices. I’ve got a system that’s been working well for me.

My method of dealing with conditions above the blue range depends on two things – Rode Violet, and a sharp putty-knife. The putty knife is so that you can quickly and easily strip your wax and start over. If you’re afraid of that, then you might consider a good pair of fishscales! I’ve already mentioned my appreciation of Rode Violet. In this case I use it as a benchmark and a watershed. If Rode Violet kicks well without icing, then I’m looking for superior speed. If Rode Violet is too slick, then I need to look for kick. A single qualitative test of Rode Violet gives my further testing some structure and direction.

K15 and K12 have been good waxes at the cold and warm end of the violet range. unlike many waxes, these run true to their published temperature ranges.

If Rode Violet is working I’ll look for speed with the following waxes (getting progressively faster)
Vauhti K12
Swix VR50
Star Racing Red
Rode Topline VPS 0/-1 (very close to violet)
Rode Topline VO 0/-2
Start RF Red
Vauhti K15
Swix VR45

If Rode Violet is not kicking, then I’ll look for kick with the following waxes (getting progressively stickier)
Vauhti K12
Swix VR55
Rode Topline VXPS 0
Vauhti Super Pink (wet new snow)
Vauhti K9
Start RF Violet
Ski*Go LF Orange
Swix VR65

There are lots of other waxes worth putting into the mix, but having a good conceptual “ladder” and a very solid mid-range wax to use as a watershed can focus you attention on half the list quickly and easily. I use Rode Violet because it’s reliably excellent – if it works, it’s generally competitive, and I’m quite satisfied if I can beat it. Vauhti K12 is another good option for a watershed wax, but I trust Rode Violet more based on experience.

Rode Topline Drywaxes

Rode introduced their Topline kick waxes to the market this year, and we’ve sold a lot of them. These are waxes that I’ve seen and used in a World Cup setting, and so I’veknown they can be good. But I hadn’t tested them extensively prior to this season. I’ve had quite a few opportunities so far this season though, and I’m confident in my understanding of the waxes.

The three Topline drywaxes target a very narrow range of conditions near freezing, and they’re clearly based on incremental adjustments to the basic chemistry of the very successful Rode Violet. The three waxes are distinctly different, and it’s worth having all of them.

Topline VO 0/-2
This is the “coldest” of the three, and it’s considerably faster than Rode Violet. I used this in my only race of the season, and on that day it was the only wax I tested that had both better speed and better kick than Rode Violet. Incidentally, the temperature that day was -3.5C.

Topline VPS 0/-1
This wax seems to be very close to Rode Violet in its balance of kick and glide. On the day that I raced on the VO, the VPS had similar kick and speed, but had a tendency to clump-up and grab in the driest snow. The VO was more consistent. However, in slightly warmer and moister conditions the following days the VPS provided the same kind of boost that VO had provided on race day. Superior speed andbetter kick.

Topline VXPS 0
This wax is considerably more aggressive than Rode Violet, and is prone to icing in conditions where normal Violet will work. I’ve had great skis with it in the past in freeze-thaw conditions and somewhat transformed snow. I haven’t tested it much in glazing new snow, but that’ll be worth exploring.

Rode Topline Klisters

The Topline Klisters have been new to me this season. But I’ve always liked the Rode klisters, and so I’ve been eager to try these ones. So far I’ve worked with them on skis to get a feeling for them, but Amy’s the one who has put them on the snow. Like the drywaxes, there are three waxes in the line. These ones target a broader range, but also like the drywaxes, they appear to be based on familiar chemistry.

Topline K3 0/+3
The same temperature range and feeling as Rossa Special – we haven’t tested this one yet on snow.

Topline KM3 -6/+6
Anybody familiar with Rode Multigrade will recognize the range. The KM3 has the same “strong” universal feeling – good bet for coarse snow, or as a mixing backbone for the tacky klisters in saturated conditions.

Topline KR3 -2/+4
The Topline version of Rossa – maybe the all-time-great tacky klister for softening a strong klister mix.

These Topline klisters have some metal additive in them, but a very small amount – sort of like Guru 39 Extreme. But the consistency is very similar to the normal Rode klisters that they’re based on. Our initial test of a KM3/KR3 mix behaved exactly like what we would expect from a Multigrade/Rossa, and was very fast. These waxes a reassuring for their familiar feeling and range, and exciting for their speed!

Vauhti K-Line KlistersVauhti has been working on a new line of klisters to accompany their extremely successful K-line drywaxes. We’ve been working with these test products at every opportunity, and so far we’re very enthusiastic about the whole line-up. We’ve just brought in a limited quantity of these for sale (still in test packaging). Here’s a run-down:

K-Base
A true dedicated base klister to provide both durability and padding for kicking klisters. In all abrasive conditions, keeping the klister on the ski is a big concern. With really tough base klisters like Rode Chola, it’s necessary to have intermediate base layers (like special violet) so that the kicking klister doesn’t strip off the extremely hard base klister. The K-Base is very tough, but also quite elastic and secure for holding kicking klisters. The folks at Vauhti have assured me that, with K-Base on the ski, the kicking klister “will not move a millimeter”. We haven’t had any extremely rigorous tests of the durability of this base klister yet, but it has worked extremely well in the tests that we’ve made. As with all base klisters it’s by far easiest to get a good application using an iron to spread the wax and heat it into the base.

K-Blue +1/-10
In the regular line of Vauhti klisters the blue pulls double-duty as a base klister and a kicking klister. In truth, it’s not superior at either. It’s a relatively weak base klister, but it doesn’t provide great kick compared to the really good kicking blue klisters. We have yet to test the K-Blue, but we’re told that it is a dedicated kicking blue klister for old snow, fine-grained freeze-thaw, and cold manmade snow. The place the normal blue klister really shines is as a basewax for hardwax – often in combination with Super Base. The K-Blue also works very well used this way.

K-Violet +2/-5
This one is based on the Violet/Universal 50/50 premix that gets used a lot in racing – good for coarse wet snow below freezing, and finer grained or manmade snow around and above freezing. This is a softer, stronger kicking wax than the normal violet.

K-Gold Universal -2/+10
The Vauhti folks are really excited about this one. It is based on the normal Universal, but with tar, and a new version of their silver additive in it. According to Vauhti the Tar broadens the range and increases the elasticity of the wax. The Silver enhances speed and prevents glazing and icing of the klister. The new aluminum oxide additive mixes less evenly than the old one, ensuring that the silver additive doesn’t “tighten” the kick surface too much and steal kick from the wax.

Our testing of the K-Gold places it in the general class of Start Universal Wide (also with Tar and silver additive) but with considerably more kick. This is a wide range and tolerant strong universal that has been good for us in both fine grained and coarse grained snow. However, it is a fairly “dry” feeling wax, and I anticipate the need for something tacky to mix with it in saturated wet snow. In fine-grained saturated tracks it does not kick as well as the normal universal klister.

Notes on Rode wax from Zach Caldwell

When I dump out my fanny-packs and corral my various open containers of kick wax I find more Rode wax “in-service” than any other brand. Including seven tins of Super Blue. Like many skiers and waxers, Rode is the foundation of my kick waxing world. Rode was formed in 1972 by Rodeghiero Rizzieri after a semi-illustrious career as a racer and service man for the Italian national team. He was a seven-time Italian national champion, but without question his lasting mark on the ski world came with his waxes.

Franco Nones, 1968 Grenoble Olympic 30K. Photo shamelessly stolen from the internet.

Uncle John has this to say about Rode:
“Rode was/is a fairly new company, but the Italian–can’t bring up his name right now (Franco Nones, with skis waxed by Rodeghiero Rizzieri)–won the ’68 30K in France because he had rode special green and gained all sorts of time on Mantyranta, on the last 2-3k downhill–that put Rode up with the big boys.”

Instead of waxing poetic (that was a pun; get it?) about the history of Rode waxes, I’ll give you an item by item run-down of the line-up of kick waxes. That will be more useful.

Drywax – In the latest version of drywax packaging many of the waxes have two different temperature ranges marked on them – one for middle-Europe (alpine environment) and one for northern-Europe (scandinavian maritime environment). In general we can think about the high-mountain west as being “middle-Europe” range and the east, midwest, northwest and Alaska as being “northern-Europe” range. But as with all temperature ranges on all waxes, these ranges are only guidelines.

Special Green – One of many good extreme cold drywaxes. This one doesn’t stand out for me in any particular way, but maybe you should ask Franco Nones. I carry it and use it.

Green – Known for its speed, I’ve been told by World Cup waxers that this one is “too fast” (code for “not enough kick”). I find the kick to be remarkably solid in most North American snow. This is a forgiving and wide-range cold drywax with great speed.

Multigrade Blue – The old tins called this “Blau” and that’s still commonly how I refer to it. This is another wax known for its speed above all. Great performance with temperature in the teens.

Blue I & Blue II – I have no idea why Rode even makes a normal “blue” in addition to blau, super and super-extra (not to mention weiss). Why they make two of them is really beyond comprehension. I have both of these waxes, and have never successfully used either.

Super Blue – This stuff is magic. As a kid and a young racer I heard it repeated often that Super Blue “won’t ice”. It is a remarkably “safe” wax, and it can provide great kick in cold conditions without killing speed. In some untransformed old cold snow it can be amazingly fast even at below-legal race temperatures. These days I use Super Blue mostly in conditions considerably colder than its nominal range, and in older snow. While it works extremely well in the “warm blue” range, there are other waxes that I usually like better there.

Super Extra Blue – Rode specifies a humidity range of “40/90%” for this wax. Is that high or low? I never could figure that out, but the wax is great in new snow, and falling snow. Under the circumstances I think Rode probably means to indicate “dry” new snow conditions. I use it closer to the advertised range of temps in snow that’s not glazing much – particularly falling snow.

Super Weiss – The third of the rode warm-blue trifecta isn’t blue at all – it’s white. This one is best in “greasy” tracks near and below freezing – untransformed snow that has seen a lot of traffic and become mealy, and doesn’t pack too well.

Multigrade Violet – This is where I’ll make some Rode die-hards really angry. I find this stuff to be tourist wax. People tend to love it because when the warm blues aren’t kicking well, multigrade violet provides bomber kick. It’s an easy step to take to get good grip. It also almost always slows the skis down. For racing I rarely ever use it. But it’s always in my fanny-pack for just skiing around.

Violet – Also known as “Zero” for it’s traditional published range of 0C. This wax is the one I depend on more than any other in the Rode line for racing. In conditions approaching that hair-raising territory where things get sloppy and kicking wax can really start to slow the skis down, this wax provides great kick with reliably excellent speed. In a world full of advanced fluorinated solutions you don’t have race wax in this range unless you’ve beat Rode zero!

Violet Extra – Meh.

Rot Extra – This is one of those exceptions like a highway exit on the left. Normally (thanks to Swix) we think of “extra” as designating a warm version of a wax, while “special” designates a cold version. Well, this is a cold red called extra. Rex has a warm blue called special. They’re trying to make us crazy. Rot Extra is quite a good cold red, but I usually end up with Swix Special Red, or one of the newer fancy waxes like Vauhti K12 or Start RF Violet.

Rossa – Once again, I end up on more modern stuff.

Yellow – “Gialla” is one of the few really sticky “klistervax” type products out there that can compete for any sort of use against the modern fluorinated waxes. Usually this stuff gets beat out by zeros, but in some conditions where relatively dry new snow is being saturated from below by lots of available moisture, this stuff can be really good in the heavily glazed tracks. However, much more commonly this goop gets used in mixes. Either on-the-ski mixes or premixed waxes like the classic Swix Extra Blue / Rode Yellow mix known as “Cowboy” or “Blellow” depending on whether you’re Bruce Cranmer or Ruff Patterson.

Fast Fluoro Kick Waxes – Rode jumped onto the fluoro kick wax train at about the time that Swix was touting the XF line of waxes. There are four Fast Fluoro kickers – Blue Special, Blue Super, Violet Special, and Red Extra. The only one I’ve never used in racing is the Blue Special, and the only one I still test is the Red Extra, which is a great wax for covering klister in abrasive hard tracks.

Top-Line Kick Waxes – I have recently seen some new Rode waxes in use on the world cup, and understood that these are a new series of modern fluorinated kick waxes. The one that I’ve had for my own use is the “VXPS”, which is comparable to my beloved Rode “zero”, and has beat it out in multiple circumstances. There are two slightly colder ones as well (VO and VPS), and you can bet I’ll be working with these as well. If you’re a Rode person, you’ll require a set of these.

Klisters

Chola – Truly one of the toughest and hardest binder klisters around, and it smells wonderfully like tar. The trick with this stuff is that it sets up almost glassy-hard, and you really need to bond your kicking klister to it with some heat. For use in really abrasive warmer conditions where kicking klisters are soft (like Rossa), I recommend an intermediate layer of base klister – either Blue or Special Violet. Otherwise the soft klister is liable to shear right off the hard Chola. Chola does not provide a “cushion” – it’s strictly for durability. It won’t come off the ski if it’s heated onto a clean, abraded base. You don’t need a thick layer of it.

Special Blue – A very tough base klister with a hard finish. This doesn’t provide the same toughness as Chola, but it is a more effective cushion for a kicking violet, or even for covering with drywax in cold fine-grained abrasive snow.

Blue – This is often referred to as “Skare” (and the special blue as special skare). The original packaging even said Skare on it. My understanding is that Skare is a Norwegian word for crusty snow, and that the word used to be fairly universally used for klister intended for icy, crusty conditions. The Rode Blue is more of a base klister than a kicking klister in my opinion. This is one of my less-used Rode klisters. I find it a little too hard to be a really versatile base for warmer klisters and drywaxes, and use Special Violet much more.

Special Violet – This is a good one – a great base klister for softer kicking klister, and for blue-range drywaxes. Also good for mixing into hardwax bases to create a more viscous kicking base. Also OK as a kicking klister in finer-grained cold icy snow, though usually the straight violet ends up being the ticket.

Violet – A truly versatile cold conditions kicking klister.If you’re kicking on Rode violet you almost certainly want a good tough base klister under it, because those conditions are sure to be quite abrasive. It’s often worth softening this a bit with Rossa in finer grained snow with moisture in it, or with Multigrade Universal in coarse grained snow.

Rossa – A truly versatile and utilitarian tacky klister – great for softening a strong klister like Violet or Multigrade on coarse snow, or adding a little backbone to a Special Rossa in wet new snow. Rossa is almost always used as an additive to soften or stabilize other waxes. It can enhance kick and resist icing in a wide range of conditions.

Rossa Special – This is a great tacky klister for fine (even new) crystals and high moisture. It is also good as a mixing klister for use when the moisture is coming to the surface and producing glaze.

Multigrade Universal – One of the great strong universal klisters for coarse snow, along with Swix K22 and Rex OV. Multigrade and Rossa is always something to test in wet coarse snow and breaking tracks above freezing. There have been days when I got sucked into chasing different combinations through transitional wetting snow, and I finished up just wishing I had waited until 10 minutes before the start and put on Rossa and Multigrade. Kris Freeman can tell you about one of those days. I never quite caught up with the obvious solution on that one! If you run out of Multigrade on a race day just check the front of Ruff Patterson’s jacket – there’s sure to be half a tube available there.

Nera – This stuff is mostly pine tar as far as I can tell. Tar is good for avoiding icing in new snow, but so is kick wax that isn’t klister! I always find that Nera has less kick than I expect – I consider it more of a cold klister than the advertised -2 to +5 range. It hasn’t been race wax for me – I have always beat it with something else – but I’ll keep trying because I love the smell. For my next set of attempts I’ll be mixing it with softer klisters. I’m thinking a Special Rossa/Nera mix for new snow…

Silver – This is a good soft silver klister – very versatile for adding to mixes in dirty snow conditions.

Silver Extra – This stuff seems to target tricky conditions where getting things exactly right is almost impossible, and your wax is almost certain to be less than satisfactory at some point in the race. I’ve never felt that Silver Extra bailed me out of some crazy situation where nothing else was going to get the job done. Rode says it’s for coarse snow changing from wet to dry corn. If anything I find it good in glazing new snow falling and blowing into saturated transformed wet tracks, as long as it doesn’t ice, which can be tricky.

Gialla – A very soft tacky klister for heavily glazed fine grained snow. Sometimes useful, but not often in my experience. It’s possible that this could be a good mixing additive with other tacky klisters like the Rossa and Rossa Special, but I haven’t played with it much in that way. In general I find zeros or hairies are better in these conditions!

Universal Plus – Another very soft klister – good for adding in small quantities stronger mixes to enhance kick. But this one has a tendency to slow things down, so be sure you test it. I haven’t used it much at all, but I’ve seen it used successfully in europe.

Simplified Wax Guide and Tips from Magnar Dala

Simplified Wax Guide and Tips from Magnar Dalan (www.skiwaxmagnar.com) Swedish and Norweigan wax technician. (Wax he has had much success with on the World Cup Circuit)

Temperature ˚C	Glide Wax	Grip Wax	Klister	Magnar’s Grip Wax
-10˚C to -20˚C	Swix CH4, Start Green, Toko Nordlite blue -10°C to -32°C	*Swix BlueExtra -1°C to-7°C	Swix Green Base klister-3°C to -25°C	#1
- 5˚C to -10˚C	Briko Violet H -10° to -30° C	Swix Blue Extra -1°C to-7°C	Swix Violet Special +2°C to -7°C	#2
- 1˚C to – 4˚C	Swix HF8 +1°C to -4°C	Rode Violet Multigrade 0˚C to -2˚C	Start Universal +10˚C to-5˚C Rode Violet -3˚C to +1˚C	#3
0˚C	Swix HF8 +1°C to -4°C	Swix VR60 New snow +2°C to 0°C Transformed snow +1°C to -2°C	Rode Rossa -2˚C to +4˚C Rode Rossa special 0˚C to +3˚C	#4

*Swix extra blue can be used in colder temps and may drag a bit at the start but will speed up as it is skied in.

More about the Klisters:

*Swix Green Base klister (KR20) -3°C to -25°C High wear resistance and adhesion. To be used as a first layer as a binder for other “top” klisters such as KR40, KR50, and KR60. Can also be used alone for icy conditions at very cold temperatures. As a first layer klister it should be heated into the base. *Can use TOKO Green as well.

Swix Violet Special (KR40) +2°C to -7°C A tough klister for old granular, coarse snow only. To be used alone on coarse snow or as a second klister before applying KR60 or KR70 on top.

Start Universal +10˚C to -5˚C Start Universal Wide klister is one of the most famous klisters in the world. All the international ski teams use Start Universal Wide klister on icy and dirty conditions. This klister keeps the kick area clean and gives a good kick on variable conditions.

Rode Violet (K30) -3˚C to +1˚C for snow changing from icy to wet. *With rainy weather spread a little of SILVER KLISTER.

Rode Rossa (K40) -2˚C to +4˚C for wet, fine or coarse-grained snow, icy tracks

Rode Rossa special (K46) 0˚C to +3˚C for new, wet or very wet snow

Some web sites with lots of info on ski products, waxing and much more:

www.rodeskiwax.com/ , http://www.startex.fi/ , www.swixsport.com/ , www.briko.com/jspbriko/corporate.jsp

http://www.toko.ch/toko/index.asp?sid=2

*Remember that proper ski selection, preparation and wax application is often more important than just what wax and wax brand you choose. When starting out you can often stick to one available brand and get to know it well. Many thin layers of grip wax is better than fewer heavy layers. Let your skis cool to outside temperatures before skiing for best results.  

Hand Structure Guidelines

Hand Structure Guidelines Article for the Master Skier by Ian Harvey Stonegrinding is definitely the most effective method for applying structure to a ski base for almost any given condition. However, sometimes we do not have the appropriately grinded ski available at an event. In this case, we need to be able to react by applying structure by hand.

I will refer to two main types of hand structure: linear and broken. A linear structure looks like this (Figure 1) and can be fine or coarse which refers to the width. It can also be deep or shallow. Linear structure can be applied using a Swix riller or Toko Structurite tool using the linear bits. Broken structure is a term that refers to a structure involving vertical structure lines that are broken up (Figure 2). It can be applied using the Toko Structurite tool using the non-linear bits (which come with the tool).

There are two main factors which determine which structure is required: water content of the snow and crystal type. I refer to approximate snow temperatures below, but please keep in mind that snow temperature is just one indicator of moisture content. Similar snow temperatures in New England and in the Rockies will normally yield very different types of snow which is why we also measure relative humidity. An effective way of evaluating moisture content of the snow is to look at it carefully. Pick it up and throw it up in the air. Blow on it to see how fluffy and dry it is. Evaluate it. It is also important to realize that classic tracks will have more moisture and possibly be more transformed than the snow outside of the classic tracks because it gets skied in. For this reason, classic skis normally require more structure than skating skis given the same conditions.

A safe generalization to make is that in new snow, a quick way to have slow skis in all conditions except for wet new snow is to have too much structure. It is safe to err on the conservative side.

Very wet (saturated) new snow requires the heaviest structure though. In transformed snow, even in the coldest conditions, a medium linear structure is a safe bet.

In very cold powder snow (snow temperatures of 9F and below), very little structure is desired. Ideally, the ski base would be almost glass smooth with just a little linear structure. In these conditions, no structure should be added to the ski.

 In cold powder snow (snow temperatures of 19F and below), there is still very little moisture in the snow. A fine linear structure (.5 to .75 mm) is best in these conditions.

Powder snow with snow temperatures in the 20s contains significantly more moisture. In these conditions, a fine broken structure (2 passes of Toko Structurite with fine nonlinear) works to break up surface tension that starts to exist with the increased water film between the ski and the snow. I should add that a broken stonegrind, generally referred to as an offset or “wet” grind is not recommended in these conditions. This is the classic “straight cross” or “cross hatch” stonegrind condition.

Wet powder snow conditions can be challenging. With too fine a structure, these can be the slowest conditions to ski in. New snow does not drain water like transformed snow usually does. For this reason, wet new snow conditions usually require the most aggressive structure of all. Aggressive deep and wide linear structures work best in very wet new snow. The Swix super riller with the 2 or 3 mm bit is necessary for those without a coarse linear stonegrind for those who want to have good skis. One important thing to note is that once this deep and aggressive structure is in, it’s not coming out! Your skis will remain skis for very wet conditions until they are stoneground or scraped flat.

Transformed snow is really different from new snow. In some ways, transformed snow acts “warmer”: usually we need a warmer and stickier kick wax and a warmer and softer glide wax also usually works well compared to new snow in the same temperature range). However, in other ways it acts “colder”. Transformed snow locks up moisture, in the form of ice, and also allows free moisture to drain. For this reason, suction is not much of an issue unless the temperatures get so warm that the crystals start to break down which releases water and keeps it on the surface of the snow.

Transformed cold snow (in the 20s and colder) requires a medium linear structure (.75 to 1 mm). The linear structure seems to match up well with the round crystals creating a “bearings on rails” type effect where the skis handle better and also glide faster. The smaller the crystals, the finer the structure required and visa versa.

Transformed wet snow (air temperatures warmer than freezing and snowball can be easily made) that is not breaking down is fast and fun to ski on. As the water drains so easily, generally so long as the tracks stay hard (set up) and the crystals are not breaking down, a linear structure with a broken structure over it is very effective.

Wet transformed snow that is breaking down because it is raining and/or it is very warm becomes somewhat similar to very wet powder snow. A very aggressive linear structure is required (2 to 3 mm).

Transformed wet snow and very wet snow usually involve dirt. When snow melts, the dirt accumulates on the surface of the snow. The dirtier the snow is, the more we need to concern ourselves with keeping our skis clean. One very common mistake is to use aggressive structure in dirty snow. This is a mistake because aggressive structure offers more surface area for the dirt to stick to and it also involves deep grooves for the dirt to accumulate in. When the aggressive structure gets clogged up with dirt, then the structure is rendered ineffective against breaking suction and there will be significant friction between the snow and the dirt on the ski base. The key in very dirty snow is to use shallower structure that is linear covered by broken (1 mm followed by 2 passes of Toko Structurite on coarse non-linear). This helps break surface tension and suction, but will not allow such opportunities for the collection of dirt on the base that a deep structure will.

There are two main hand structure tools on the market: the Toko Structurite and the Swix Riller. They each have their advantages and both are necessary for the serious ski racer. The Toko tool presses the structure in. Pressing is advantageous in that the structure is only temporary. The ski will return to its original form after a couple of wax jobs. This is especially important when considering how many pair of skis are available and if they are “all around” skis or skis just for wet snow. The Toko tool also has the capability of pressing in both linear and broken structure. The Swix tool is less versatile, but when conditions are wet and a truly coarse structure is required, it is the tool for the job. The Swix Riller is capable of cutting in a much deeper linear structure (when desired) than the Toko tool is. This structure will also last for a long time which can be good and bad.

When hand structuring with any tool, it is very important to press down with all of the pressure that can be given while moving the tool down the ski from tip to tail. This must be done while the ski is on a form bench. Linear Structure Broken Structure

Kick Wax chart

The Art of Kick
The first thing that you’ll notice about this chart is that it is jam-packed full of all kinds of different stuff. But you’ll also notice that it doesn’t have as much as my two drywax fannypacks pictured above. Kick waxing can be as a simple as picking a good line of wax, and reading the labels. If you need more kick, grab the next warmer wax. But kick waxing can be so much more as well.

The problem with kick waxing is that “good enough” is relative. If you find a wax that kicks well and doesn’t ice, then you’ve got skis that will work – they’re “good enough”. But I’ve had days with good kick and free-feeling skis where I got by butt-kicked by superior skis. I’ve also had days where I had good kick and free feeling skis, and then I found something that completely changed my perspective on “good enough”. So, what is “good enough”?

Perfect kick
The quality of the grip you get when you’re skiing can fundamentally change the way you ski. With perfect kick you don’t have to think about the motions – you relax and more of your energy goes into making speed. With less than perfect kick your motions are less than perfectly relaxed – even if you never miss a kick, you’re putting energy into finding the kick, and there is tension in your motions. A lot of times perfect kick isn’t possible, but when it’s available, you want it!

Perfect glide
We all know about ski speed, and of course we’re looking for fast skis. But when it comes to striding we also want free skis. By that, I mean skis that are free and fast when you step onto the gliding foot. Skis that are free-gliding tend to feel more secure kicking as well because you’re not pushing against as much resistance in the stride. Contrast between kick and glide is important for good feelings of security and freedom.

Perfect balance
Most of the time when we want more kick we can get it, at the expense of speed. Sometimes, what we really want, instead of more kick, is more freedom and speed, which will enhance the contrast between kick and glide and provide a greater sense of security. As a rule of thumb, the wax job that provides the most contrast between kick and glide will produce the best race results.

Base waxes & binders
I have spent an increasing amount of energy testing different base waxes and binder solutions as time has passed, and I’ve come to believe that basewax is critical. One of the really big draws of the Vauhti line is their three base waxes, the AT, Super base, and K-base, providing increasing levels of elasticity and suspension to the wax job. In basic, cold, new snow conditions we don’t make too big a deal out of the binder, and find that you don’t want to complicate things too much. But as you get into any amount of mixed or old snow and high moisture the quality of the basewax can have a bigger impact on the success of a wax job than the finishing wax.

Klisters
In the past I’ve treated klisters entirely differently from drywaxes, even using a different wax chart. But I don’t think about or work with klister all that differently. Because of their material qualities klisters are a bit easier to mix and drywaxes are a bit easier to layer, but you can do either – mix or layer – with both. And as often as not we end up using klisters and drywaxes in combination. As a rule, klisters go on the ski very soft and goopy, but tend to “freeze” into a harder kicking layer on the ski. Drywaxes tend to maintain similar consistency on the base and in the tin. As such, it’s not inconsistent to “soften” a violet klister by mixing in some blue drywax. As a rule I don’t draw hard and fast lines between the use of drywax and klister.

About the Chart
Of course, we’re featuring lots of Vauhti product here because the Vauhti kick waxes are the reason we picked up the line in the first place. We’ve left more favorites off this chart than we’ve had room to include. If you ever want to have a long conversation with me give a call and ask a simple question about kick waxing. The best advice I’ve heard is to keep it simple. I’ve never been able to follow that advice.

Race Paraffin Chart

Why Paraffin Counts
We’ve heard the argument that it doesn’t matter much what paraffin you use if you’re just going to cover it up with a fluoro powder. Testing and experience both indicate that this isn’t true. The fluoro applications form a surface coating, while paraffin penetrates the base to provide the bulk-properties of the wax job. The analogy I like to use (when I’m hungry) is a cooking one. Fluoros are like the seasoning you put on the meat, but the paraffin is the cut of meat.

Paraffin goes a long way toward determining the hardness of the base, and the ability of the wax job to resist dirt and wear. The contribution of the paraffin to the speed of the wax job varies with conditions. Sometimes it seems that paraffins make a really big difference, or at least that the right paraffin makes a really big difference – bigger than the powder and top-coats. This can be the case when one paraffin is really dominant in testing.

What about black stuff?It can get confusing – nearly every wax company offers “black” versions of their waxes. Some companies suggest using black underlayers in all conditions. What to do?

Black additives can be a number of different materials, including graphite, molybdenum, wolfram, and others. These additives contribute different qualities, including shear-lubrication, electrical conductivity, and base stabilization. While some black products have a very broad range, others are quite “dangerous”, and the potential liability can be high. In general black waxes are indicated for dirty conditions and old snow. But the safest thing is to use them only when you’re able to test them. In new snow conditions I definitely prefer to steer clear unless I’ve got test data to back up the use of a black additive.

There are many geographic locations where black waxes seem to do especially well, and offer an advantage more often than not. It’s a little like finding a good restaurant – when you can tap into local knowledge you’re going to do well!

Application
Paraffins are applied with an iron, and according to the manufacturer recommended temperature settings. Getting wax to penetrate the base requires a certain minimum critical iron temperature of about 115 degrees C (depending on the base formulation). Waxing with an iron below that temperature won’t do much (heatboxes utilize a much slower mechanism of absorption). Every wax has a certain amount of heat it can carry, and using an iron that is too hot risks damage to the base material in the form of destabilized amorphous materials (the cause of black wax shavings!). If you follow the wax companies suggested iron temperature guidelines you will be in the right temperature range!

After ironing it is important to let the wax cool for a sufficient period of time – preferably a couple of hours. If hours are not available, it is best to allow the wax to rest at room temperature for ten or fifteen minutes. I don’t know what happens chemically between the time the wax cools, and a couple of hours later, but the stability and finishing texture of the base is greater when more time is allowed.

About the chartNo wax company can claim to have the best paraffins. Because we import Vauhti we use it as our primary testing line, and find that it works very well – particularly in new snow. But we wouldn’t want to be without swix HF8, or Start HF80. We could name lots of other favorites – like the Holmenkol Matrix line – but we have to make choices and this chart reflects our current use and recommendations.

Power chart - caldwell sport

“Pure fluoros” are not pure, and they’re not the same!
There is some lingering conventional wisdom out there that “all pure fluoros are the same”, and the more sophisticated version “all the raw materials come from one of three factories, so many of the pure fluoros are the same”. However, anybody who has tested multiple different powders knows that this conventional wisdom is wrong, even if they don’t know why.

The reason it’s wrong is that the wax companies do a lot of processing to their raw materials before they’ve got a finished product. A true “pure” per-fluorocarbon powder or liquid would be too difficult to work with on ski bases (per-fluorocarbons don’t like to melt if they are solids, and they don’t like to adhere to anything whether they are liquids or solids). And so we work with mixtures of per-fluorinated molecules, and other “chaperone” molecules that help the perfluoros coat and adhere to the ski base. While wax companies may start with similar raw materials, the reactions and processing that they use is proprietary, and the resulting products are all different.

Why fluoro powders are used in all conditions
Another piece of conventional wisdom states that fluoro powders only provide a benefit when the conditions are really wet, or at least above freezing. This is certainly the range of conditions where the benefit is most notable, but the benefits to fluoro powders throughout the range are real enough so that it is nearly unheard-of to race without a fluoro powder application at the World Cup level. Perhaps the biggest reason for this is that Fluoros have superior durability. Paraffins can be fast, but they tend to slow down considerably after several kilometers in all conditions, while fluoros will hold their performance much better over longer distances. This really becomes a big factor after about 10km in most conditions.

In most conditions the final performance boost and refinement will come from a top-coat – either a cold-corked fluoro block or a liquid application. With the powder we’re usually looking for good foundation qualities and a broad range. The products we like and recommend have been race-proven over time, and we trust them to provide stable and predictably competitive results.

ApplicationWe use an iron to apply these fluoro powders. It is also possible to use a roto-cork. In the past we’ve spent some time testing different application methods, but recently we’ve settled on the iron as the most effective, cleanest and fastest method to ensure good durability and performance. Many of the modern fluoro powders have very high melt points and require iron temperatures of up to 180 degrees Celsius. It is important to have a good iron to apply these powders! If you’re in the market, check out the Star digital iron featured on our Tools page. The new Star irons have a maximum temperature of 180 degrees.

About the chart.
Just like with paraffins, no one company can claim to have the best fluoro powders. It would be easy for us to make this chart featuring entirely different brands. This reflects our current use and preference more than any kind of absolute assurance!

Ski*Go C380 and Star C1 are synthetic paraffins in powder form – they’re not fluoro powders. They’re used to create a very hard surface in extreme cold conditions.

wax room saftey

Wax Safety

By: Matthew T. Pauli
The advent of flouro additives in glide and kick waxes has spawned the need to adequately address the safety and health factors associated with their use. This article hopes to address some of those questions and concerns. This excerpt will not make you a safety and health expert or provide you with secrets on faster skis. This is written by a person who takes an extreme interest in occupational safety and health and still uses Fall-Line wax products that seem to surface from the nether-regions of the wax trunk.
I enjoy cross country skiing, as I have since the elementary school jamborees. By profession, I am an industrial hygienist. What? Some people assume I restock the paper towels in the restroom or promote good oral hygiene in the workplace. To put it into perspective, industrial hygiene is the art and science of anticipating, recognizing, evaluating and controlling workplace stressors (chemical, physical, and microbiological) in the work environment that negatively impact worker health, the health of family members, and the community environment as a whole. The profession has been recognized since the turn of the century coinciding with the industrial revolution. I have a graduate degree in industrial hygiene and find addressing and correcting workplace hazards very rewarding. In addition, my thesis work focused on respirator fit and fit factor calculations under varying ambient temperatures.
I have worked as an industrial hygiene consultant in the private and public sectors including the State of Alaska, Occupational Safety and Health (state OSHA). I have visited a variety of Alaskan workplaces with a variety of workplace hazards including fish processors (noise, cold, ergonomics, ammonia refrigeration), office spaces (ergonomics, indoor air quality), welding shops (welding fumes, ultra-violet radiation, noise), and plastics extrusion molding (chemical inhalation and dermal exposures). I have observed quite a bit, took measurements, recommended controls, withdrew myself from hazardous situations, and referred egregious safety and health violations to enforcement.
So, what is the concern with flouro waxes? That would depend on the route of exposure. It is virtually impossible to absorb through the skin. It doesn't taste to good but would probably give you an upset stomach if you decided to ingest it. The main route of exposure would be inhalation; when the wax is applied (heated) with a heating appliance. As my toxicologist friends say, "Dose makes the poison!"
Obtaining a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the various wax products was difficult. The MSDS I did receive from Swix was half-English, half-Norwegian. When distributors were contacted (well-known ski shops) they were equally perplexed on my request.
Individuals equate odor with exposure. Quite frankly, fluorine has no odor. The odor generated by the melting of ski waxes are more than likely the major hydrocarbon constituents. Now, if the wax was heated beyond the point of decomposition, then it is likely that exposure is already occurring and the applicator should be concerned with creating an unhealthy environment. The Swix MSDS previously referred to indicated not to heat ski wax beyond 360 degrees Celsius. This appears to be the temperature in which the fluorine additives decompose. Modern waxing irons would be hard pressed to reach this temperature. Heat guns and torches could easily surpass this temperature.
Reading the literature of one wax manufacturer, a statement indicated that the government requires the use of respiratory protection when employees are over-exposed to chemical contaminants. Nothing could be further from the truth. Respiratory protection is the choice of last resort. Several steps should be taken prior to the use of respirators. These include:

1. Engineering controls;
2. Administrative controls; and,
3. Personal protective equipment (PPE).

Each of these approaches are discussed below.
Engineering controls include the use of ventilation and the substitution of less harmful chemicals. Ventilation can either be termed as general or exhaust ventilation. General ventilation, or lack thereof, is the norm in most waxrooms. The axiom, "dilution is the solution" is never heeded. Let's face it, if a skier was ever in a situation where they could barely see the opposite side of a waxroom, then that person is more than likely in an unhealthy atmosphere. The other type of ventilation is exhaust ventilation. Bathroom fans and kitchen range hoods meet these criteria. Local exhaust ventilation, where the contaminant is removed from the work area at the point where it was generated, is typical of welding operations, lab benchtops, wood working machinery, grinding operations, and automobile repair shops for exhaust gas capture. Local exhaust ventilation is the preferred method. As long as adequate capture and transport velocities exist, the contaminant will be removed.
Substitution is another key engineering control. Substitution includes using an inherently less harmful product in place of the more hazardous product. In the case of ski waxing, using low flouro or straight hydrocarbon waxes in place of high flouro or straight flouro products. It is reasonable to assume that flouro products are not the fastest waxes across the snow condition and temperature ranges.
Another example of substitution is the use of wax remover. Some wax remover cleaning solvents are a witch's brew of aromatic hydrocarbons (toluene, xylene, benzene), petroleum distillates (Stoddard solvents and mineral spirits), and halogenated hydrocarbons (methylene chloride, methyl chloroform). Some of these are known occupational carcinogens. Newer solvents are citrus-based with minor petroleum distillate properties. The pleasing odor helps. While still somewhat volatile, they are less so than the cleaners of old.
Work practice controls are very important. For ski waxing, these include iron temperature setting, buffing versus ironing flouro additives, and body position of the waxing technician. Regardless of what is said, skiers want to get that wax on, and now! This inevitably leads to smoking the wax from high iron temperatures. What we don't want here is an iron so hot that the decomposition temperature of the nasty stuff is met and the nasty stuff is released. Investment in a modern waxing iron is imperative. I still have a collection of old flat irons gathered from thrift stores. These have been relegated to the bottom of the wax trunk.
The decomposition temperature, from what I have read, is higher than the optimum application temperature. Buffing flouros is a work practice that eliminates the excessive heat and exposure potential. It saves your ski bases and eliminates the exposure. Finally, body position is crucial. Leaning over the ski as the ironing process takes places will lead to exposure. Proper hood design is imperative. The canopy design places the hood above the waxing operation. Waxing by-products are drawn, considering capture velocity is adequate, vertically. If the wax technician is postioned over the process, excessive exposure occurs.
PPE is the final alternative when limiting exposure to a harmful substance and should only be considered when engineering and work practice controls cannot be feasibly implemented. Unfortunately, it is the protection method that is relied upon the most. PPE includes respirators, aprons, gloves, eye protection; those articles of equipment that are placed between the individual and the hazard. Some occupations demand PPE use including firefighters, health care professionals, painters, and asbestos abatement workers.
All respirators leak. Some less than others, but this must be stressed. Selection of respiratory protection is not by happenstance. Facepieces are all different, faces are all different. Do not purchase a respirator because it is the "most popular on the World Cup Circuit!" This was found in a catalog of a reputable ski shop in Utah. That claim no longer exists in the catalog but they continue to sell respirators. In addition, different respirators exist including half-face, full-face, powered air-purifying, supplied air; the list goes on. All respirator facepieces must be fit tested. The respirator must be donned (put on) and doffed (taken off) properly. A clean shaven face is a must! If you have beard, you are only kidding yourself that you are properly protected.
Cartridge selection is important. I have seen recommendations anywhere from organic vapor cartridges to combination cartridges; attempting protection for every conceivable contaminant. A short primer in aerosol science is necessary here. Ski wax is heated. The solid is transformed into a liquid and quickly cools to a solid. The wax has sublimated, similar to a welding operation. The liquid in turn has evaporated slightly to become a vapor. This vapor quickly condenses to a fume particle that makes up the constituent of the smoke generated by the melting process. A vapor is not a fume but they are both aerosols. Next time you here someone say, "I really like the smell of gas fumes when I am filling my car's gas tank!" Correct them and say that they enjoy the "vapor."
A wax fume particle is one (1) micron ((m)(Dahlqvist, et al, 1992), one-millionth of a meter, one-hundredth the width of a human hair which becomes airborne. This inhalable particle makes up a portion of the respirable fraction with a 97 % chance of being transported to the deep lung (ACGIH, 2001).
What would be the reaction if this happened? As an inhalable particle, irritation of the entire respiratory tract including the naso-pharyngeal (nose-mouth), thoracic (lung-airways), and deep lung (gas-exchange) regions could occur. The irritation would stem from the hydrocarbon constituents and, if heated to decomposition, the decomposed fluorine. Flourine reacts with water and becomes hydrofluoric acid. The respiratory system is indeed a moist environment. While exposures from ski waxing would be acute and more than likely not lead to degradation of tissue, the resultant irritation is a combination of the moist environment of the respiratory system and the contaminant.
So, what type of cartridge? An MSDS from SWIX indicated a "P3." Since the MSDS was written for European application, this recommendation is based on the European standards. The U.S. equivalent would be based on a cartridge certified by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). NIOSH is the only agency that certifies respiratory protection for use in this country. If you just happened to pick up a respirator in Europe and it is not on the Certified Equipment List compiled by NIOSH, the respirator is not certified for use in this country.
The equivalent cartridge to the P3 in this country would be a P100 or "High-Efficiency Particulate Air" (HEPA) cartridge. A P100 removes fume and particulates through diffusion and attraction down to .3 (m in diameter with a 99.97 % efficiency. For those physicists out there, the force of attraction is VanderWaals force (Revoir and Bien, 1997) A combination organic vapor/P100 cartridge can be used, but the major concern would still be the wax fume generated when the aerosol condensed to form the fume particle. Gases and vapors are removed by absorption and adsorption. Filter medium for particulates are substantially different than what would be required for organic vapors.
I find it noble that so many wax manufacturers, how-to books, ski shops, and coaches insist on respiratory protection during the waxing process. However, the current situation implies that a little knowledge does more harm than good. I would be more than willing to discuss issues affecting health and safety in the waxroom. I can be reached at via email atkickwax@acsalaska.net.

References